Wines on display at Azienda Agricola Elio Grasso in Montforte d'Alba, Piedmont.

It was a hot and sunny morning in late July when we rolled up to the Azienda Agricola Elio Grasso estate to learn more about this venerable Piedmontese producer.

In actual fact, we rolled DOWN a long and steep driveway, at the bottom of which appeared the most idyllic and stunning estate set amidst the rolling hills around it, as if on a platform all its own.

The wines made by Elio Grasso are nothing short of spectacular. They are refined, elegant and true to the terroir from which they hail. They can also be extremely hard to come by, and are often a well-kept secret of the most knowledgeable wine collectors.

While Elio Grasso is perhaps best known as a producer of high quality Barolo (to say nothing of its 100 point bottling!), there are nuances to this statement that are relevant.

If you are here, that means that you have heard something about this producer and want to know more. Read on to learn what makes Elio Grasso unique, and worth having top of mind when it comes to the wines of Piedmont!

Elio Grasso - A Piedmontese Gem

*Oak barrel with Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté from the 2022 vintage maturing inside of it.*

Location and Terroir

Elio Grasso is located within the commune of Monforte d’Alba, which is situated in the southern part of the larger Barolo appellation.

Monforte d’Alba is the second largest commune in the Barolo region (there are 11 communes in total) based on the area under vine. As is typical in the Barolo DOCG, the vineyards of Monforte d’Alba are characterized by rolling hills with varying elevations and exposures. There are also varying soils in Monforte d’Alba, consisting primarily of sandstone and marls created over different time periods.

The Elio Grasso estate is situated outside the village called Monteforte d’Alba . More specifically, the estate is found in the Ginestra Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (“MGA”). Within the Ginestra MGA, there are several smaller “crus” - Elio Grasso is within one of these that is called “Gavarini”. In fact, the land within the zone called Gavarini is almost exclusively owned by Elio Grasso.

At the estate, the vineyards fan out across a stunning natural amphitheatre which is located at approximately 400 meters above sea level.

This beautiful elevated position, combined with the diverse soils of the area (most notably the Helvetian sandstone and compact clay) offer ideal conditions for grape growing, especially Nebbiolo. Cool nighttime temperatures, excellent drainage and varying and preferential sun exposures across the estate's various vineyard parcels all come together to create a ripe breeding ground for vivid aromatics, intense structure, variety and finesse in the estate’s wines.

History of the Estate

Azienda Agricola Elio Grasso takes its name from the man who is named Elio Grasso.

Elio, who is now in his 80s, took over his family’s farming operation in the late 1970s and set about in earnest to create a wine legacy. While the Grasso family had been farmers in Monforte d’Alba for generations, cultivating grapes, hazelnuts, and other crops, their grapes were sold to cooperatives or local bottlers prior to Elio taking over the estate.

In 1978, after years away pursuing a different career, Elio Grasso returned to the family’s land with a vision of transforming the estate into a producer of high quality estate-bottled wines. He was lucky, because he was working with land parcels that had long been recognized as being superior - the Gavarini zone was historically famous for quality.

From the beginning, Grasso was deeply involved in every aspect of the winemaking process, from work in the vineyards to cellar operations to building out the estate’s infrastructure. He was deeply dedicated to quality practices in the vineyard, and respect for the terroir, which became the springboard for the success of his wines. He was also amongst the first in the region to treat and vinify the grapes from different parcels within his vineyard separately.

Today, the estate is run by Elio’s son Gianluca Grasso, who shares a deep reverence for tradition and the land. Gianluca oversees both viticulture and winemaking, continuing the practice of vinifying parcels separately and avoiding excessive intervention in the cellar. His philosophy is that wines are made first in the vineyard and thus he spends most of his time and attention there. We were told that Gianluca does not see himself as either a “traditionalist” or a “modernist”….but rather, Elio Grasso is simply focussed on making the best wines possible that reflect the terroir that they originate from.

The estate remains small in size and family owned. Gianluca and his wife run the estate with the same hands-on care as the previous generation with the help of a small, dedicated team of employees. Every decision—from green harvesting in the vineyard to picking date to the timing of bottling—is made with deep care and with the intent of honouring the terroir and the character of each vintage. A walk around the property and through the immaculately pristine cellar, as we were treated to, makes the care and dedication of the team abundantly clear.

A Few Things Worth Noting

As noted above, Elio Grasso almost exclusively owns all of the land in the Gavarini zone within the Ginestra MGA. It must be noted that Gavarini used to be a historical name in the region; though today it has been subsumed within the Ginestra MGA, Gavarini appeared as a zone in the region’s earliest maps attempting to delineate crus (and a quality hierarchy) within Barolo. As such, there is no denying the quality of the conditions that give rise to the fruit here.

Secondly, Elio Grasso produces only about 90,000 bottles in total, across its entire portfolio, per annum. Despite its international success, this is still a family-run, small to medium sized operation.

Also of note - Elio Grasso owns approximately 42 hectares of land, of which 18 hectares are planted to vines. The remaining 24 hectares are covered in forests and meadows which surround the vineyards and also impact the microclimatic conditions of the estate.

While the notes above indicate that Elio Grasso has more or less a “monopole” (i.e. exclusive ownership of the land) in Gavarini, there is a small portion owned by another producer. To add to the picture - Elio Grasso has vineyards in other areas of the Ginestra MGA as well.

From a philosophical perspective, Elio Grasso is all about varietal and terroir purity - they never blend their grapes, nor do they ever buy grapes from other growers. All vines are manually harvested.

Lastly, the estate itself is located in a natural amphitheatre, the backdrop of which is an exposed sandstone peak that showcases the unique Diano sandstone of the region. It is a truly beautiful sight to behold!

Grapes Cultivated by Elio Grasso

Elio Grasso grows and cultivates Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto and Chardonnay. Interestingly, they actually got their start with Dolcetto, though today, Nebbiolo is the undoubted star of the portfolio.

Portfolio Gems: Single Vineyard Barolos

Elio Grasso is known for its single vineyard Barolos, made from 100% estate grown Nebbiolo.

As noted above, the Grasso family owns land across one of Monforte d’Alba’s most prestigious MGA’s, Ginestra. Amongst its portfolio of landholdings, its monopole-like holding in the renowned sub-zone of Gavarini is indeed noteworthy.

Having said that, Elio Grasso actually produces three single vineyard expressions of Barolo, as follows. Each one comes from different vineyard parcels and is unique in its own way!

Let’s take a look at each one, in turn:

Elio Grasso “Casa Maté” Barolo DOCG Ginestra
This wine is produced using grapes from south-facing vineyard plots in Ginestra that are on a high ridge just outside of the town of Montforte d’Alba. The term “Casa Maté” refers to a house that sits atop these vineyards.
The soils here are limestone based and with a higher proportion of clay, which generates a sturdy, expressive and age-worthy wine. The Casa Maté is matured in 25-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels for about 13 months and is made from vines with an average age of 40 years, with some vines ranging up to 70 years old. The Casa Maté is a highly regarded wine.
Elio Grasso Gavarini Chiniera Barolo DOCG
As noted above, Gavarini is the concave amphitheatre that is carved into sandstone within which the estate sits. This zone within Ginestra has considerable historical significance. It is situated at a higher elevation and the soils here are sandier. This coupled with the microclimate being slightly cooler tends to lead to wines with more lift and finesse.
In recent times, two sub-areas of Gavarini have been identified as being unique and distinct and they are therefore vinified separately by Elio Grasso. The names of these sub-areas are Chiniera and Rüncot (discussed below).
The Elio Grasso Gavarini Chiniera Barolo is made from grapes that are exclusively from the Chiniera plots. These vineyard plots are located around the estate and have a south-facing exposure at approximately 400 metres above sea level and on a slope, which provides for excellent sunlight interception.
The Gavarini Chiniera Barolo is also matured in 25-hectolitre Slavonian oaks barrels for about 13 months; the average vine age is about 35 years. This wine is very highly revered for displaying a floral, aromatic and lifted character.
Elio Grasso Barolo DOCG Riserva Rüncot
Rüncot is the second sub-zone that has been identified within Gavarini. Only 1.5 hectares in size, the Rüncot vineyard consists of four south-facing plots that are located directly below the Elio Grasso winery, at a lower elevation than Chiniera (300-350 metres above sea level).
Rüncot was first released in 1995 and is only produced in exceptional vintages. After completing alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, the wine matures in new French oak barriques for 48 months, followed by another 18-24 months of aging in bottle prior to release.
The Elio Grasso Barolo DOCG Riserva Rüncot is the crown jewel in the Elio Grasso portfolio and regularly receives critical acclaim, with the 2016 vintage having been awarded a perfect 100 point score from one renowned wine critic.

The Portfolio Beyond Barolo

While Barolo is the estate’s primary focus, Elio Grasso also produces the following wines, reflecting the diverse nature of the region’s viticultural picure:

Langhe DOC Nebbiolo “Gavarini”: Made from young Nebbiolo vines in the Gavarini vineyard, this wine offers charm and easy drinkability. This wine is vinified and aged in stainless steel only.
Dolcetto d’Alba “dei Grassi”: A fruity and expressive wine made from the Dolcetto grape, which is grown on the estate’s cooler slopes. Bright, juicy, and vibrant, this is a delicious addition to any meal. This wine is also aged and vinified in stainless steel only.
Barbera d’Alba “Vigna Martina”: A wine made from the Barbera grape, this wine has structure and balance due to the growing conditions and aging in french oak barriques. It is named after the daughter of the current owner-operators.
Chardonnay “Educato”: While not a native grape to the region, Elio Grasso’s Chardonnay offers an elegant, well made and mineral-driven white wine that reflects the estate’s high-altitude terroir.

Each wine in the portfolio is vinified with the same attention to detail as the Barolos. Quality is never compromised, and the wines retain a sense of place, which is the hallmark of the estate.

Critical Acclaim and International Recognition

Over the past two decades, Elio Grasso’s wines have received widespread acclaim from leading critics and publications. The estate is often listed among the top producers in Barolo, and its single-vineyard wines consistently receive high scores.

In addition to accolades from critics, Elio Grasso wines are highly sought after by collectors and sommeliers alike, valued for their purity, quality and finesse. The single vineyard Barolos are also prized for their ageability.

The Final Verdict

Elio Grasso is not merely a producer of Barolo—it is a guardian of place, tradition, and family. Every bottle of wine produced by the estate is a reflection of a clear vision: to let the land speak, to respect the vine, and to craft wines of enduring elegance and power.

As global interest in Barolo continues to grow, Elio Grasso remains a benchmark for the region as a whole, and in for Monforte d’Alba in particular. Wine collectors and wine enthusiasts alike - this is a Piedmontese producer that is worth your time!