DECODING WINE WORDS: Appassimento, Explained
If you drink a lot of Italian wine, chances are high that you have probably encountered the word “appassimento” on a label or in a wine description. This term is closely associated with some of Italy’s richest and most distinctive wines, particularly the wines from the Valpolicella region in north-east Italy. Yet, many people are not clear about what this term actually means.
The term “appassimento” does not describe a particular grape variety, nor does not tell you whether a wine is red or white, nor whether it is sweet or dry (although it is indeed a common misconception amongst many wine consumers that the term indicates that a wine is sweet!).
Instead, appassimento describes a process wherein partially dried grapes are used to produce a wine. The drying process concentrates the components of the grapes and usually has a notable effect on the style, structure and flavour of the finished wine.
Prefer to listen? Episode 58 of The Wineitupanotch Podcast explores the appassimento method, the wines made from it in detail.
WHAT DOES “APPASSIMENTO” MEAN?
Appassimento is an italian word that translates most naturally as “withering,” “drying” or “partial dehydration” according to the Treccani Institute. It comes from the verb appassire, meaning “to wither.” In wine production, the term is used to describe the process of drying harvested grapes before they are fermented.
An important distinction is that appassimento is the process, while “passito” is the term used to refer to the resulting wine. This distinction matters because appassimento is sometimes treated as though it were the name of a wine style. In reality, the process can be used to produce wines with very different colours, flavours and sweetness levels.
WHAT DOES THE APPASSIMENTO PROCESS ENTAIL?
The process begins in the vineyard where fruit health must be optimal. Producers need ripe, healthy and undamaged grapes to start with because compromised fruit can create serious problems during the drying period. Bunches are therefore carefully selected at harvest and may be sorted again before the drying phase of the process commences.
The selected bunches are arranged so that air can move around them. Depending on the region, tradition and producer, they may be laid on racks, trays or mats, or hung vertically. Often, the grapes are dried in a dedicated room or loft. Traditionally, producers relied on natural air circulation to do the drying work but today, modern drying rooms use fans, ventilation systems, temperature control or humidity control to create more consistent conditions and desired outcomes.
The drying period can last for several weeks or months. Typically, it lasts for approximately 100 days and may continue for 120 days or longer, depending on the producer, the vintage, the grape varieties and the intended wine style.
Once the desired degree of dehydration has been reached, the grapes are sorted again before being destemmed, crushed or pressed and fermented.
WHAT HAPPENS TO THE GRAPES AS THEY DRY?
First and foremost, water evaporates from the grapes as they dry. As water evaporates, berry weight and volume decline while sugars, acids and flavour compounds become more concentrated. Changes can also occur in the aroma profile and phenolic composition of the grapes during the drying period.
The amount of water loss varies - grapes intended for dry wines may lose roughly 20–30% of their weight, while those intended for intensely sweet passito wines can lose up to 40–50%. The target depends on several factors, including grape variety, berry size, bunch compactness, drying rate, vintage conditions, the intended style and producer preferences, as well as any applicable appellation rules.
This concentration helps explain why appassimento wines can possess such remarkable richness and intensity. It should be noted that a substantial quantity of freshly harvested grapes yields a comparatively small amount of finished wine at the end of the day.
DOES APPASSIMENTO = SWEET?
As we’ve explained above, seeing the term “appassimento” does not automatically mean that a wine is sweet. This is one of the most important points to understand.
Drying concentrates the sugar in the grapes, but it does determine how much sugar will remain in the finished wine. This primarily depends on how much sugar is left in the grapes and what happens during fermentation. If yeast convert most of the available sugar into alcohol, the resulting wine will be dry (and likely high in alcohol). On the other hand, if fermentation stops naturally or is stopped by the winemaker while substantial sugar remains, the resulting wine will be sweet.
LOOKING AT THREE OF ITALY’S MOST FAMOUS WINES: AMARONE, RECIOTO AND RIPASSO
Valpolicella, in Italy’s Veneto region, is the place most closely associated with the appassimento method. However, not every Valpolicella wine is made using this method, nor do they all have the same profile.
Let’s consider 3 very famous and relevant examples:
Amarone della Valpolicella is made from grapes that have undergone appassimento and is fermented to dryness, or very close to it. This is typically a concentrated and rich wine with elevated alcohol, full body and intense flavours. It is generally quite ageworthy.
Recioto della Valpolicella is also made from grapes that undergo appassimento. However, the grapes are often more concentrated from longer drying and the wines end up retaining sufficient residual sugar to be sweet.
Valpolicella Ripasso is often confused as a wine that is made with appassimento but actually, it is produced using a very different technique. These wines are actually refermented on the pomace (the skins and other grape solids) remaining from the production of Amarone or Recioto. This additonal step gives Ripasso wines greater body, flavour and texture. However, the final wine, while similar, does not have the same character that an Amarone or Recioto possesses.
For a fuller explanation of Amarone, Recioto and Ripasso - and why these terms should not be used interchangeably, listen to Episode 58 of The Wineitupanotch Podcast now!
THE FLAVOUR PROFILE OF APPASSIMENTO
The main jist here is that there is no single flavour profile. Grape variety, drying conditions, fermentation kinetics, maturation approaches and residual sugar all influence the final result in the glass. What can be said with certainty is that appassimento frequently produces concentration and can shift fresh-fruit flavours toward more dried or preserved fruit and/or tertiary notes such as dried fruits, leaves and spices.
Depending on the wine and the grapes used, aromas and flavours may include dried cherry, raisin, prune, fig or marmalade. Honeyed, floral or balsamic notes can also develop, along with chocolate, coffee, toast, cinnamon, pepper and other spices.
Often, the palate can feel intense and full-bodied because the drying process concentrates more than sugar alone. Acidity, flavour compounds, tannins and colour compounds also become concentrated. When done well, this creates a beautiful sense of harmony and balance, rather than heaviness or a too-high-alcohol vibe.
THE CHALLENGES OF THE APPASSIMENTO METHOD
The challenges of using the appassimento method are worth pausing on, and understanding.
In reality, the drying period introduces a long and vulnerable stage between harvest and fermentation during which producers must carefully manage several risks.
Firstly, the fruit has to be exceptionally sound. Damaged berries create opportunities for unwanted microorganisms to develop. As the grapes dry, producers must continually monitor and remove any fruit affected by undesirable mould or rot. Airflow, temperature and humidity management are also critical and constitute a major expense in the production of these wines.
Secondly, resulting yields are very low. Grapes lose a meaningful proportion of their weight as water evaporates, so considerably less liquid remains for the final wine. This means that the return on investment necessitates a higher price point for these wines.
Thirdly, fermentation conditions can be very challenging. The concentrated must contains high levels of sugar, creating a demanding environment for yeast and increasing the risk of a sluggish or stuck fermentations (both which come with a whole slew of challenges that must also be managed!).
There are other challenges but understanding the ones above are key to truly appreciating what appassimento means and represents to a winemaker and his/her team.
ARE APPASSIMENTO WINES PRODUCED OUTSIDE OF ITALY?
Although appassimento is an Italian term, grape drying is not unique to Italy. Equivalent wines are indeed made in other parts of the world. The precise grapes used, drying conditions and production rules may differ, but other wines do also employ drying prior to fermentation as a central tennet.
For example, France produces vin de paille, or “straw wine,” from grapes traditionally dried on straw mats or racks. Austria uses the term Strohwein for its straw wines. Cyprus’s historic Commandaria and Spain’s intensely sweet Pedro Ximénez wines also rely on grape dehydration. And in Greece, sun-dried grapes are used for the sweet wine known as Vinsanto that originates from Santorini.
Interestingly, the technique has also found an official home in the regulations of Canada. Under the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) system, appassimento is an optional production method; however, use of the term on a label is subject to specific requirements. This is an interesting example of a historic Italian technique being adopted in a new world wine region.
PRODUCERS TO KNOW
If you are interested in exploring the appassimento method, specifically through the wines of Valpolicella, several important producers are worth knowing and seeking out.
Specifically Bertani, Giuseppe Quintarelli, Masi, Speri and Tedeschi are among the established names associated with Amarone and, in some cases, Recioto. Although their wines can differ considerably in approach and style, they do all offer a good look into the essence of the appassimento method. Tasting across producers can be one of the best ways to understand how much influence grape selection, drying, fermentation and maturation can have even when a singular base method is being used!
CONCLUDING THOUGHTS
To close, we want you to remember one thing after reading this article.
Appassimento is a process - it is not a sweetness category and/or a single wine style. It describes the partial drying of grapes before fermentation - and the resulting wines are often notable for their concentration, richness and complexity.
The next time you see appassimento on a label, we hope you will better understand what has gone into making the wine in your hand, and what you can expect in your glass!
Until next time, cheers!
To hear the complete discussion, including the practical challenges of the method, the differences between Amarone, Recioto and Ripasso, what to expect from wines made using appassimento and more, listen to Episode 58 of The Wineitupanotch Podcast!
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DECODING WINE WORDS: Appassimento, Explained!
Don’t be confused by this term any longer.